Kitten Care & Health Check-ups

Introduction

Introducing a new kitten to your family is an exciting moment, but it can be overwhelming for the cat as they enter a new environment with unfamiliar sights, smells, and people. While the change may seem joyful, it can be stressful for the animal. To ease the transition, it’s important to establish routines and be well-prepared. Here are some tips to care for your cat, ensuring their comfort and safety in their new home.

Many cats find traveling to be a stressful experience, so it’s important to anticipate that your new cat may feel distressed upon reaching its new home. Upon arrival, ensure that all doors and windows are securely closed, and maintain a quiet environment in your house. It’s advisable to set up a designated room for your cat to stay in during the initial days, equipped with essentials such as water and food bowls, a litter tray, a warm bed, and toys. This designated space should be carefully kitten-proofed, ensuring it is devoid of any potentially hazardous, toxic, or valuable items. Additionally, check for hiding spots or tight spaces where a kitten could get stuck. The area should be easy to clean and have the option to be sealed off with a door. Ideal locations for this safe space include a spare bedroom, office, laundry room, or bathroom.

Throughout the initial introduction phase, spend quiet time with your cat and allow them to explore their new surroundings at their own pace. Gradually, over the next few days, you can open up additional rooms for them to investigate, enabling the cat to roam freely in the house. If you have other pets, it’s advisable to keep them in a separate area of the home while the kitten is exploring. This facilitates a process known as “scent swapping,” allowing your kitten to familiarize itself with the smells of your resident pets and vice versa, all while minimizing the potential for negative interactions.

Housing/Sleeping Area

We strongly recommend keeping cats indoors to reduce the likelihood of the following:

If you decide to allow your cat outdoors, ensure that he/she is securely confined within a suitable cat enclosure or kept indoors between dusk and dawn, as this is the time when most predation occurs.

While cats are known for their independence, many also enjoy companionship and playtime. To keep your indoor cat content, consider:

Sleeping Area

There are several factors to consider when deciding where is best suited for your cat’s dedicated sleeping area;

  • Somewhere warm
  • Safety: Cats feel safer when they are high up. It gives them the security that they can see or sense any oncoming threats or dangers.
  • Peace and privacy
  •  Away from the litter tray

Toilet Training

Before bringing your new cat home, there are a few essential steps to take:

  1. Purchase one or two full-size litter boxes.
  2. Fill the litter box with appropriate litter.
  3. Place the litter box in a private, quiet location that is easily accessible for your cat.

Once your new cat is home, potty-training them to use the litter box is crucial. Follow these steps:

  1. Initially, confine your cat to a room without carpet, such as a bathroom, with their litter box for the first few days.
  2. Keep the litter box clean by scooping it out at least once a day, maintaining the proper depth, and replacing the litter entirely every three weeks for clumping litter (more often for multiple cats). For non-clumping litter, scoop solid waste daily and replace all the litter at least once a week (more often for multiple cats). Clean the box regularly with fragrance-free soap and water.
  3. Never punish your cat for not using the litter box. Accidents happen, and punishment can cause confusion and fear. If you catch your cat mid-accident, calmly place them in the litter box. If your cat suddenly stops using the litter box, consult a veterinarian for potential underlying medical issues.

Cats usually catch on to litter box training quickly due to their natural inclination towards litter-like areas. However, occasional relapses and accidents may occur. Stay calm, address the issue, and remember that it is a normal problem with a solution. Enjoy your time with your new kitty and shower them with love during this adjustment period.

Vaccinations

Three core vaccinations are required for kittens at 6-8 weeks, 12 weeks and 16 weeks. Kittens are usually fully protected 10-14 days after the final vaccination. A yearly booster is also required. Even cats that are exclusively indoor require regular annual vaccination.

What diseases does my cat need to be vaccinated against?

If your cat goes to any areas accessible by other cats, comes into contact with other cats, or goes into boarding, we advise that they are protected against the core three diseases. These three viruses are combined into a single vaccine, commonly referred to as the F3 Vaccine:

  1.   Feline Enteritis – Feline Panleukopenia; causes diarrhoea, vomiting, and eventually shock, blood infection and death, especially in young kittens. Also causes abortion or permanent neurological damage of foetuses in pregnant cats.
  2.   Cat Flu – Feline Herpesvirus (HV); causes upper respiratory tract infections/symptoms such as sneezing, nasal discharge, ocular discharge, corneal ulcers and cough
  3.   Calicivirus (CV); causes upper respiratory tract infections/signs which include conjunctivitis, eye ulcers, sneezing, loss of appetite, fever and inflamed throat.

Cats going into boarding are generally required to be up-to-date with F3 vaccination to be accepted into the boarding facility.

Cats may also be vaccinated against feline immunodeficiency virus (FIV) and feline leukaemia virus (FeLV). These are considered non-core vaccines. If your cat will be going outside, we also recommend vaccination against the FIV virus.

Fleas

No one likes an itchy kitten, especially the kitten! So we recommend a routine, monthly or three-monthly treatment to prevent fleas becoming a problem.

Feeding

We recommend a mixture of wet and dry good quality kitten food, which is vital to the little kitty’s health. You will be guided through the best diet as well as the frequency of meals to suit different life stages.

Deworming

Kittens need to be dewormed every two weeks until they are 12 weeks old, then monthly until six months of age. Afterwards, three-monthly topical treatment or tablets.

Microchip

All pets in Victoria should be microchipped. You have to apply online for a “Source Number” on the home page of “Pet Exchange Register”, here is the link for that https://per.animalwelfare.vic.gov.au/. If your pet goes missing, a microchip is the best way to track them, identify them, and get them safely returned to you. It can be done at any age, but new animals older than 12 weeks must be chipped before they can be registered with your local council. Remember to update your details with the registry if you move or change phone numbers.

Microchipping is a highly reliable identification method that significantly enhances the likelihood of reuniting with your lost cat. A tiny microchip, approximately the size of a grain of rice, is inserted under your cat’s skin by a veterinarian or another qualified individual. Each microchip possesses a unique identification number.

De-sexing

Performed around 5 months of age; however, for very small and very large breeds, our vets will discuss the pros and cons of the de-sexing time for each breed. De-sexing will prevent pregnancy and can reduce wandering, anti-social behaviours as well as incidence of many medical conditions.

Insurance

Unfortunately, you can’t add Fluffy to your Medicare card, but you can take out pet insurance to help minimise unexpected costs associated with treating illness or injury.

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In case of emergency please call 03 9781 2003

If your pet requires animal emergency treatment outside of our opening hours, lease try to call 0429 141 523

or

Call the Animal Emergency Centre on 03 9770 5555.